Sunday, May 31, 2009

Monroeville, IN to Napoleon, OH

64 miles. An incredibly beautiful day. We thought we were back in our beloved Colorado. And the ride was very scenic as much of it was alongside the Maumee River or creeks that feed it. Having grown up in this state, I don't think it's possible for Ohio to look any better than it did today.

And for most of the morning we saw almost no other people or vehicles, despite the fact that the landscape is steadily becoming more suburban and less agricultural. Perhaps everyone was sleeping in on Sunday morning, and those who weren't were in church. We pretty much had the roads to ourselves, at least until we hit Defiance (about 40 miles in).

I need to digress however and talk about last night, which we spent in special "cyclists only" housing (of sorts) in Monroeville, IN. Monroeville happens to be on the route of two of the major Adventure Cycling Association (ACA) routes - the east-west "Northern Tier" route that we are currently following and a north-south "North Lakes" route. So Monroeville sees a fair number of long-distance cyclists during the peak riding period of May through September each year. The town has a population of less than 1,300 people but has become a model of how cities can encourage and support bicycle travel. There are no motels or campgrounds on the ACA route within at least 25 miles of Monroeville. So when Monroeville built a community center a few years ago at the town park/ball fields, they also designed it to accommodate cyclists using the ACA routes. Cyclists can put bikes and other stuff inside for the night, take a shower* and use the washer/dryer and sleep inside (on the floor in your sleeping bag) all for free. There is no reason other towns can't do the same thing, which would help remove a major impediment to travel by bicycle - lack of places to stay in remote areas.
*We arrived yesterday afternoon and, per the sign on the door, called a local member of the community board (Warren) to let us in. He did that and then went off to find another guy on a bike trip from Michigan who had called about staying the night as well. Warren, who turned out to be quite a character, was rightfully very proud the facility and his community's efforts to help long distance riders and spent a long time telling us about it. He also mentioned that the hot water heater had been out of service recently and he was not sure if it had yet been fixed. Penny then got in the shower and soon thereafter Warren, myself and the guy from Michigan heard her shouting "Holy Moley!", "Jesus Martha!", etc., confirming that the water heater was still indeed out of order.

Where are the palm trees?

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Maumee River pic #4

Near Napoleon, OH
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Maumee River pic #4

Near Napoleon, OH
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Western Ohio scene

Are you sure this isn't Kansas?
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Maumee River pic #3

Near Defiance, OH
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Maumee River pic #2

Near Defiance, OH
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Maumee River pic #1

Defiance, OH
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Should have been done long ago

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Saturday, May 30, 2009

Wabash to Monroeville, IN

70 miles. Before I comment on the ride today I want to say something about our experience last night. Before yesterday, we had never met Don and Barb, our overnight hosts in Wabash. We knew of them only because they had rented our Florida home (the double wide trailer) for the past couple of years. We showed up in their driveway late in the afternoon, looking rather bedraggled. I hadn't shaved in at least a week and we had just completed a 60+ mile day after having camped the night before. Don and Barb warmly greeted us and invited us to stay in their lovely home. We had a really nice time visiting and after we showered and I shaved, they took us out to dinner and insisted on picking up the tab. Also we did a couple loads of smelly bike clothes in their laundry. This morning, Barb prepared a massive breakfast for us and stuffed some bananas and homemade brownies in our packs as we were leaving. What
gracious, wonderful people! For us this episode was another reaffirmation of the basic goodness of most people.

The ride today was our longest so far in terms of mileage, but thanks to yet another tailwind we cranked along at a good pace. And the weather again cooperated; it was overcast and cool for most of the morning and a few drips of rain fell. But by noon the clouds had moved on and we had sunny skies the rest of the day.

South of Fort Wayne, we met Steve, another cyclist out for a training ride. He was only a few years younger than us but was training for a series of competitive races. We were impressed while he thought we were the bomb. We took pictures of each other and then rode together for a few miles. After we watched Steve fend off a German Shepard that came after him from an adjoining house, Steve told us that another large dog actually ran into him recently while he was on a ride - nearly knocking him off his bike. We've started to encounter the Fido problem pretty much every day for about the past week. Most of the time we are able to simply outrun the dog before it ever gets close enough to do any harm. But stories like Steve's are not uncommon, with riders often being knocked to the pavement and sometimes suffering serious injuries. Our big fear is not being bitten by a dog, but that the dog would get under the wheels or in front of the bike, causing us to go down. One crash on this trip is enough.

Happy together

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Cyclists-only lodging pic #3

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Cyclists-only lodging pic #2

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Cyclists-only lodging pic #1

Monroeville, IN city park
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Meeting another cyclist

Steve, from Fort Wayne, who at 53 is still racing. Who says Lance is too old?
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McMansion

Near Poe, IN (south of Fort Wayne)
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Clydesdales

Near the Salamonie Reservoir in Indiana
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Our hosts in Wabash

Don and Barb
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Indiana scene #2

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The Mile High City?

Maybe not. Denver, IN post office.
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Sign of the day

Denver, IN
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Friday, May 29, 2009

Indiana scene #1

Near Fletcher, IN
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Miniature donkeys pic #1

They were so cute!
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Monon to Wabash, IN

66 miles. One of our longer days by mileage, but it was a beautiful day and we had yet another tailwind. The Indiana countryside was beautiful and filled with water sources - farm ponds, creeks and several rivers. We were on county roads almost the entire day with virtually no traffic, which also made the ride pleasant.

At one point while we had stopped to take pictures of some miniature donkeys, a guy pulled up in a pickup truck to ask us about our trip (a not uncommon experience). He had his young son with him and told us that when the boy gets older he wants to do a similar trip with his son. That was pretty cool and was not what many cyclists might expect to hear coming out of a pickup truck's window in rural America.

We also met Rocky today. Rocky is a chocolate lab who came bounding out of the woods by his owner's farm as we rode by. Being chased by farm dogs is not unusual (we also had a Jack Russell terrier come after us today) but Rocky was clearly just having a good time, bouncing alongside the tandem as we tried to pedal past him. Unfortunately he also ran in front of us several times, nearly causing us to hit him. After the second such episode (and Rocky repeatedly ignoring our requests to go home) we stopped the bike and, using an old Slim Jim meat stick as an inducement, got him to accompany us back to his house. But despite a severe scolding by his owner, Rocky refused to go in his house so that we could be on our way. He just loved Penny and would not leave her side. So Penny went into the house, the owner grabbed Rocky by the collar, and then Penny darted out the door. Rocky was no doubt fit to be tied and he never got the Slim Jim either.

Miniature donkeys pic #2

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Travel trailer with attached deck

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Watseka, IL to east of Monon, IN

56.5 miles. We crossed the Illinois-Indiana border today, although there was no sign at the border indicating that we had entered the Hoosier state. We were on a county road at the time, and since they are primarily used by local farmers the states probably figure it's a waste of money to tell people who live in the area that they are now in a different tax jurisdiction.

It was cool and overcast all day. There were a few drops of moisture from time to time but once again it never rained (I should know better. The more I talk about our luck with the weather the more likely it is we are going to get creamed very soon.) And we had another tailwind today, which made the flat terrain roll by quickly.

We are camping tonight at a campground outside Monon. It sits along a creek that feeds into the nearby Tippecanoe River. We are the only tent campers but there are at least two dozen travel trailers in here as well. However, there are only two other campers here tonight (a Thursday). The owners (a couple about our age who met in a campground when they were 12) explained that the travel trailers remain here year round manager), which I should have realized (some of them have wood decks attached, adjoining storage sheds and/or landscaping). The owners of the trailers (some of them from the Chicago area, two hours away) mainly use them on the weekends. They are not allowed to live here, so can't use their trailers as second homes. But the campground allows them to "store" their trailers at a nice place to also use them. Apparently this type of arrangement is pretty common in Indiana. It was a new way of doing things to both of us though.

Thursday, May 28, 2009

Campsite

Outside Monon, IN
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Corn cribs

Near Illinois-Indiana border
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Horses

Near Iroquois, IL
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Lord, I can't go back there

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Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Old Iroquois County courthouse building

Watseka, IL. Now serves as a museum. Note the "widow's walk" fencing on top.
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Grain weighing scales

Watseka, IL
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Pontiac to Watseka, IL

61.5 miles. The skies threatened rain as we pulled out of Pontiac, but it never did - continuing our incredible good fortune with the weather. In over a month on the road, the only moisture we have ridden in so far lasted for half of one day (a cold drizzle going into Lindsborg, Kansas). There was a strong wind blowing out of the southwest today, which meant a tailwind for most of the day, so we cruised most of the way. However, about 25 miles into the ride - and (of course) right after I had commented to Penny how remarkable it was that we had not run into any major road construction), we came upon a detour sign because it said a bridge was out 6 miles ahead.(We were on Indiana Hwy 116 about 5 miles east of Cullom.) The detour sign directed drivers to turn south on Indiana Hwy 115, which was almost directly into the howling gale. We did not know how far out of our way the detour would require us to go and were not enthusiastic about riding into the wind for and indeterminate distance. As we hesitated, a pickup truck going the other direction pulled up and I flagged the driver to roll down his window. When we asked him about the detour distance, he told us to just keep going straight for another 5 miles, then go one mile north to a parallel county road (all of which were paved) for a couple of miles, then one mile back south to rejoin the highway - a total detour of only 2 miles. When we pointed to the detour signs directing drivers to go south, he waved his hand across his face and told us to ignore them - the detour led to a series of county roads that had gravel surfaces. Thank God for locals. And guys: don't be afraid to ask for directions.

We stopped in Ashkum for lunch at a C-store that had a Subway in it. While we waited in line several of the local cops, including the Chief of Police, came in for lunch too. They asked about our trip, as countless people have. The Chief startled us by saying "welcome to Nowheresville". After we had regained our composure we assured him that we'd seen a whole lot of 'Nowheresvilles' on our trip and we really liked most of them!

Oh yeah, it was our 31st wedding anniversary today. No fancy dinner, wine or gifts but we had a very good day nevertheless.

Siesta time

Penny takes a well-deserved nap (note the death grip on the remote).
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Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Another day off in Pontiac, IL

Penny is still struggling with a painful rib* and did not sleep well. It was clear that she needed more rest. Also, the weather forecast for the day was not good, so we decided not to ride today.

The day was not a total washout however. We rented a car (not an easy task in a small town) and drove to Bloomington (Illinois, not Indiana - about 40 miles from Pontiac) with our troublesome front wheel. We found a bike shop able to re-true the wheel but they initially said it would take several days to get to it (this is the peak season for maintenance work by bike shops). After explaining to the shop owner that we were in the midst of a cross-country trip (he was quite envious and said he has always wanted to do the same thing, but said "you'd have to pay me to do it on a tandem") he agreed to true the wheel by the end of the day. And he agreed that a thread locker product (like Locktite) needed to be applied to the threads to prevent the spontaneous unraveling problem from reoccurring. So hopefully that issue is now finally behind us. We were also able to buy a new (spare) tire
to replace the beat up one we were keeping for an emergency spare.

Bloomington, and adjacent Normal, Illinois have a population over 100,000, making them seem like the size of Los Angeles to us as we haven't been in a town of over 20,000 people since we left Pueblo on Day 2 of our trip. We also realized that we had not used a car in over a month (with the exception of the ride that Virgil gave us in his truck from the Katy Trail trailhead to his home in Pilot Grove, MO). "Look honey, they have a Denny's here!"

*We are pretty sure it is a pulled muscle related to the biff on the Katy Trail.

Monday, May 25, 2009

Rest day in Pontiac, IL

We originally weren't sure that we'd take a rest day here, but we were glad we did. We have generally found that most towns have something good to offer newcomers, whether it be beautiful old homes, historic buildings, a small college campus, nice parks, yard art, etc. And in almost every small town we've been in after Pueblo (i.e., every town) the people have been great.

Pontiac is named after the great Native American chief who united a number of tribes in uprisings against the British and the American colonists.* It has a population of about 12,000 and straddles the banks of the Vermillion River. Its most significant feature however may be that it also sits on the famous US Hwy 66, which begins in Chicago, goes southwest to St. Louis and then on to California. There is an (honest-to-God) museum located here dedicated to the old highway, which was long rendered obsolete by I-55. We expected the museum to be cheesy, but it was quite the opposite. It contained thousands of pictures, knick knacks (the Route 66 salt and pepper shakers from an old roadside restaurant were our favorite) and information about restoration efforts in Illinois. There are two full floors of exhibits. The museum has visitors from all over the place; the lady at the desk didn't bat an eye lash when we said we rode our tandem here from Colorado and there was a couple here today from France on motorcycles who managed to make it here despite speaking almost no English.

Strange as it sounds, there is a significant effort underway to preserve the many road signs, diners and unique landmarks** along the road. Volunteers have been recruited in many of the towns along the road to rebuild and repaint buildings, signs and even a tunnel under the highway built to allow school children to cross safely. It may seem strange trying to preserve garish billboards and old gas stations, but the highway is truly representative of the boom period of our American car culture and it is encouraging to see people getting together to preserve pieces of it.

There is also a so-called "war museum" in the same building housing the Route 66 museum. It was started 5 years ago by a local WWII veteran with a few old uniforms and weapons. Due to a ton of donations and a lot of volunteer effort since then, it has grown to include exhibits covering WWI, Korea, Vietnam, Iraq I and II and Afghanistan and has overrun the available space. Contrary to my fears when we walked in, this museum did not glorify war or focus primarily on battles and weaponry. Instead, it was mostly about the experiences of the people who donated the stuff - including veterans of the Omaha beach invasion of France and the siege at Khe Sanh. And unlike a lot of museums, there was nothing behind glass cases or roped off. Visitors could touch everything (I had no idea that an M-1 rifle was so heavy). Staffed by volunteer vets, it was open on Memorial Day and a great way to spend part of the holiday.

*There are about 8 towns in the U.S. named Pontiac, which sadly most people associate with a car company.

**My personal favorite is a Paul Bunyan-like giant statute holding an enormous hot dog.

Interior of museum

Who'd a thunk a highway could generate so much memorabilia?
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Get your kicks

At the Route 66 museum in Pontiac. It was actually very nice...and free too!
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Yard ornaments pic #3

Pontiac, IL
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Yard ornaments pic #2

Pontiac, IL
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Yard ornaments pic #1

Pontiac, IL. For some reason geese with dresses on are very popular here as yard ornaments.
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Livingston County courthouse

Pontiac, IL
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Sunday, May 24, 2009

Henry to Pontiac, IL

54.5 miles. The first 20 miles to Wenona were hard. We had a stiff headwind and had to climb a very steep grade as we left the Illinois River valley. Penny was struggling with a very sore rib (either a pulled muscle or a residue of the Katy Trail crash) and my back was bothering me a little, so we were not feeling well. We stopped more frequently for breaks than normal, and in Wenona ate a "pre lunch" snack while we visited the very classy memorial for service men and women. Almost every town we have been through has one of these, but they vary in quality and upkeep. The one in Henry - among other things - told the story of a submarine commander in WWII from Henry who, after giving his crew a chance to escape, decided to go down with his sub rather than risk revealing the US battle plans under torture by the Japanese. It made us feel grateful and a little guilty as well, that we enjoy so many freedoms and almost assume an entitlement to them (take them for granted) yet we owe a lot of that ability to do what we want to the sacrifice of veterans. We all need to do a better job of thanking and supporting our vets.

The wind died down somewhat in the afternoon and the riding was more pleasant (ample doses of Advil and Tylanol helped a lot too). We met another cyclist (Grant) who was riding east-to-west from Illinois to Washington State. We actually passed each other and he made the effort to turn around and catch up to us to chat, because he said that one of his objectives was to meet other riders. We have been very disappointed in seeing only a handful of other self-supported cyclists in our trip thus far (over 1,360 miles). Grant was a day brightener - 22 year old who was traveling by himself and planning to camp most of the time. (We tried to convince him that we too would be camping most of the time if we were his age, but he looked skeptical.)

We were going to take a rest day on Tuesday, but decided to take it here tomorrow in view of our desire to mend some aches and pains. Pain medications only can do so much, the body sometimes just needs a good rest.

A soul mate

Grant, another cyclist we met today. He is traveling from Illinois to Washington state by himself.
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Veterans memorial

Wenona, IL
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Illinois River at Henry

Is a little high right now. This riverfront street is under water.
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Illinois River pic #2

Henry, IL
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Illinois River pic #1

Henry, IL
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Saturday, May 23, 2009

Monster truck

Farm country version
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Tilling the soil pic #2

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Tilling the soil

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Roadside stop

I think we just snuck under the weight limit.
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Friday, May 22, 2009

Monmouth to Kewanee, IL

60 miles. A tough day on the bike, and we are very tired, for reasons we don't fully understand. Although we are pretty sure that at least part of it is due to:

1. We had a head wind most of the day. It was in the 10-15 mph range, so not a huge factor but it certainly didn't help.

2. The terrain was hillier than what we had experienced for the past couple of days: not killer hills like those along the Mississippi, but wee had to make frequent trips to see Granny and did a lot of standing on climbs.

3. We ran into some horrible pavement on some of the county roads we were on. Most of the roads were just fine, but a few had pavement that was ridiculously soft. I don't know what they paved those roads with, perhaps an old pan of Betty Crocker brownies. One could clearly see where car tires had sunk into the surface by almost an inch. Riding the tandem on this junk was like riding in sand with two flat tires. And there were steep hills to boot. We got off onto better roads after a couple of miles, but the experience sapped our energy.

4. Due to an operator malfunction, we rode with the drum brake on for at least 5 miles right after we got off the awful roads. It's a goof comparable to driving with the parking brake on, only on a bike it makes you work harder rather than your car's engine.

So in retrospect, there shouldn't be any mystery about why we are so pooped!

A word about our route. After leaving Colorado Springs, we generally cycled eastward through the center of Kansas and Missouri. West of St. Louis we turned north along the Mississippi. We were following one of the established (Adventure Cycling Assn.) north-south routes along the river and had intended to follow it to Muscatine, Iowa where we would connect to another ACA east-west route. Only days away from crossing the river into Iowa, we realized that we could shorten the route and save a day and one-half on our schedule by cutting out Iowa and crossing central Illinois to join the ACA east-west route there rather than at Muscatine. So that's what we have been doing for the last two days, which required us to do some quick studying of special color-coded county road maps for cyclists available on the Illinois DOT website, printed and sent to is overnight by my brother Greg (thanks again bro!) The maps allowed us to figure out a low traffic route over the 127 mile stretch from the ACA north-south river route to join the ACA east-west here in Kewanee. And it worked great, other than they need to include a new map color - brown, for the brownie-surfaced roads.

Common farm scene

Small grain elevator near Alexis, IL.
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Fields finally planted

The farmers are frantically planting right now. Due to a lot of rain this spring (all of which we thankfully avoided) they could not plant until recently, very late in the process.
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Thursday, May 21, 2009

Nauvoo to Monmouth, IL

67 miles. The material for blogging may have been a little thin lately, but today we had some clear blog-worthy experiences.

First, about the ride today: it was long in terms of miles, but due to a tail wind most of the way and generally flat terrain we sailed along rather easily. The weather was again great, with sunny skies and temperatures in the low 80s.

The only glitch on an otherwise perfect day is that the tandem developed a noticeable wobble in the front wheel. Due to some of the spokes loosening as we have bounced over countless cracks, railroad tracks and other bumps in the road, the wheel had become "out of true." This had not yet reached the point where it was a major problem or a safety issue, but it would only get worse. And while we are carrying a spoke wrench and can tighten/loosen the spokes to try to minimize the "out of true" condition, it takes a special tool (called a "truing stand") in which the wheel is placed and an expert bike mechanic to really adjust the wheel so that it runs true. The problem is that truing stands and bike mechanics are not found at your local Wal-Mart or even sporting goods stores. In the roughly 1,100 we have ridden before today we have found 2 bike shops, so I was very surprised to get a 'hit' when I did a Google search for a bike shop in Monmouth, a modest-sized town in central Illinois. The "bike shop" turned out to be Martin, an elderly gentleman who was running a locksmith and bike shop out of the garage of his house until recently (when he shut down the locksmith portion because the city was insisting that he have a permit for it). He told us he had a truing stand and, if we would leave the wheel with him for a couple of hours, he would have it trued.

So we walked around for a while, enjoying in particular Monmouth College (home of the Fighting Scots), the really college campus. We ended up at a bar downtown having a couple of beers, where we met a local resident (Jan) who seemed to know everything about everybody in town (it is a small town after all). Among other things, she confirmed that Martin was the only person in town who knew anything about bikes (but was surprised to learn he was still in business). We also got Jan's life story in a lot more detail than we really wanted (TMI). By that time it was after 5 so I called Martin to find out how he was coming along on the wheel. He told me (in his thick German accent) that it was all done and, alertly recognizing from the background noise that we were at a bar, added "don't drink too much". After assuring us that she'd "only had 3 beers" Jan offered to drive us back to Martin's to pick up the tandem in order to ride it to our motel. She could have had 10 beers and I think we would still have accepted her offer - we were tired and still in our sweaty bike clothes. As she was dropping us off at Martin's, who really had done a fine job truing the wheel, Jan tried to ask me for legal advice about some problem with her mother's benefit payments. She became perturbed when I told her I could not give her advice because I wasn't licensed in Illinois and didn't know anything about the subject area (having spent most of my career dealing in the intricacies of natural gas law and regulation). She seemed to think that a lawyer is a lawyer and why don't you know something about this? Maybe she's right, but while I also know some basics about bike mechanics, I know when to go to an expert in the area. And the next time I have a wobble in a wheel I will know to
call Martin again.

Martin's shop

In his garage (note the tandem lying upside down in background).
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Penny and Jan

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Steve and Jan

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